janataly ® 06-Авг-2016 13:15

The Science of Ocean Waves


Year: 2013
Language: english
Author: Zirker, Jack B.
Genre: Textbook
Publisher: Johns Hopkins University Press
ISBN: 978-1-4214-1079-1
Format: PDF
Quality: eBook
Pages count: 285
Description: Powerful ocean waves fascinate the public, and they have made a lot of news
lately. We all remember the terrible loss of life and property that Hurricane Katrina
caused in 2005. Much of the damage on the Gulf Coast was caused by battering
waves that rode up a storm surge to a height of 9 m.
Then there was the tsunami launched by the great Sumatran earthquake in
December 2004. At Aceh, near the epicenter, a wave of 30m (98ft) crashed onshore
and obliterated the town. This impulsive wave crossed the Indian Ocean and killed
over 200,000 people in 14 countries.
But the great tsunami that crushed the shore of Japan in March 2011 and inundated
the Fukushima nuclear power plant was in some ways the scariest of recent
events. The combination of a magnitude 9.0 earthquake, a 10-m tsunami, and the
prospect of a core meltdown was a scenario usually seen only in science fiction.
Perhaps the most awesome waves are the so-called rogues or freaks that can rise
up out of a moderate sea to heights of 20m or more. In 1942, for example, the giant
passenger ship Queen Mary was carrying 16,000 troops to England. The ship
was hit by a 28-m-high rogue wave that rolled the huge liner to an angle of 52 degrees.
A few degrees more might have capsized the vessel. Such freak waves were
thought to be extremely rare events, but radar-equipped satellites have since disproved
that comfortable assumption.

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