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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters


Year: 2007
Language: english
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Genre: Textbook
Publisher: Cambridge University Press
ISBN: 9780511270215
Format: PDF
Quality: eBook
Pages count: 405
Description: The book introduces the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions, including those with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. The author discusses the observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, then defines the parameters that characterise them. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters are presented, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of spectral energy balance. A large part of the book is dedicated to the physical aspects of waves. The author also gives the results of established theories and also the develop of present research. The book includes a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

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